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Author Archives: LAYERSLONDON
We are adding another two new exciting labels to our store’s selection – KOCHÉ and IH NOM UH NIT.
KOCHÉ stands at the crossover of high fashion, street culture and contemporary art. Founded in Paris by Central Saint Martins graduate Christelle Kocher and launched in 2014, the label showcases her immense experience and talent. Over a decade of luxury fashion experience Christelle worked with brands like Bottega Veneta, Dries Van Noten, Chloé and others, as well as became the artistic director for Maison d’Art Lemarié, a famous craft house owned by Chanel.
The collections are produced by some of the most specialised artisans, including the French Maison d’Art Lesage, Montex & Lemarié, its intense and distinct attitude offers a very casual, yet highly luxurious approach.
Modern, elegant and refined, KOCHÉ propose an intriguing new angle to fashion.
image © Highsnobiety
IH NOM UH NIT
A luxury lifestyle house established between Paris and Los Angeles, IH NOM UH NIT offers a range of ultra high end furniture, jewellery, ready-to-wear and a unisex fragrance since 2015.
Ever rebellious and worldly, the creative team seeks to obtain the highest quality of materials through routine of global inspiration trips, for the design and production phase becoming devoid of third party dependancy.
IH NOM UH NIT derives inspiration from its environment, Earth tones and materials such as sage, concrete, shades of white, refined lines, glass, and coveted metals with the goal of offering much more than a display of monochromatic visualisation as seen in contemporary design.
This reduction doesn’t encapsulate the process, but allows the studio to focus on the minutiae of luxury and sustainability that’ll last the test of time.
We are introducing two new brands to our selection, LES HOMMES and LES BENJAMINS.
LES HOMMES was created 10 years ago by Belgian fashion designers Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch.
Both graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Belgium, Tom and Bart have formed an inseparable duo since they first met at the fashion academy of Antwerp.
Very charismatic designers with a strong personality, their menswear is sculpted, slender and sharp; a vision of fashion that brought LES HOMMES to be one of the most celebrated modern menswear brands.
The LES HOMMES collection shows every season within the Milan Men fashion week and is a strong actor of the international fashion panorama.
Bunyamin Aydin is the founder and creative director of Les Benjamins, a streetwear fashion label established in 2011 and based in Istanbul. The Collective name “Les Benjamins” celebrates diversity, referencing the fact that every language, religion, and nation has their derivative of the name Benjamin.
Aydin maintains a hybrid design philosophy for Les Benjamins, creating sophisticated urban separates that explore both Eastern and Western aesthetics in unexpected combinations of digital print and artisanal textures. Likewise, a keen interest in hip-hop culture has led Aydin towards artistic collaborations with music artists including Travis Scott, Skepta, Wiley or Section Boyz – promoting his strong belief in the progressive, cross-disciplinary spirit of fashion today.
Travis Scott, Skepta, Asap Nast, Jaiden Smith, Cara Delevigne, Woodkid, Rita Ora, Jourdan Dunn are just some of celebrity trendsetters that are amongst Les Benjamins’ fans.
A new, very exciting label is coming to LAYERS next season. Vetements was created by a collective of seven designers, all of whom were also part of Maison Martin Margiela team.
Our favourite fashion news source BoF has put the label under it’s spotlight:
“There is something paradoxical about a label whose generic name, intended to steer attention towards the garments it produces (vetements is French for clothes), instead, prompts instant curiosity about the people behind it. Indeed, in a city dominated by large luxury houses helmed by prominent designers, each with their personal vision, womenswear ready-to-wear label Vetements quietly stands out for its anonymous and customer-centric approach.
“We decided to think, firstly, of all of the women we wanted to dress, what their preferences are, what length for a skirt, what kind of tailoring shapes, what colours, what essential garments. We thought of our friends, of real people we know and what they would want to wear,” say the seven designers behind the label, who insist on anonymity and communicate as a collective.” | more >all images © Matthieu Lemaire-Courapied
Nicole Phelps / style.com: “At its height in the eighties, the house of Emanuel Ungaro was synonymous with exuberant prints and ultra-feminine silhouettes. Today the label’s new designer, Fausto Puglisi, opted to explore one of the less-remembered parts of Ungaro’s oeuvre: androgyny. “What I used to like most were his masculine suits in all those prints,” Puglisi said backstage. There’s nothing wrong with going against the grain. Brand revivals don’t have to pay obeisance to the founder’s legacy to be successful these days: See the upward trajectory of Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent. | more >
wwd.com: “Backstage before the show, Fausto Puglisi said he wanted to make Emanuel Ungaro a “big brand” again, but that he knew there is a lot of work to do. A step in the right direction, his fall lineup was for “a girl who is tired of showing off, who prefers to dress for herself.” Puglisi noted that this season there’s “no bling, no belt, no gold or accessories.”” | more >
Amy Verner / style.com: “Backstage after the Yohji Yamamoto show, one stood a better chance of gleaning clues about the duvet dresses and knotted-sheet skirts from makeup maven Pat McGrath than from the designer himself; his explanations can be Yoda-level at best. McGrath said she worked with the idea of “powerful dolls,” which Yamamoto soon confirmed as part of a fairy tale he constructed—and then extended well past its visual limit. The designer never quite got around to describing how he achieved such impressive volume other than to confirm that volume was his focus.” | more >
wwd.com: “Witness the power of the puffer jacket in the hands of Yohji Yamamoto, who elevated that most banal staple of cold-weather sportif to conceptual fashion with his fall collection, using it to convey two very different, visually arresting moods. He began with plain black in extreme volumes, cutting grand, robelike silhouettes out of what was basically a down comforter. The shapes were beautiful and strange — some were padded to give the illusion of a pregnant belly — evoking the bleak softness that has defined some of Yamamoto’s best collections.” | more >
Tim Blanks / style.com: “The night before the show, Owens sent a reassuring message to his models, something along the lines of, “Try and enjoy the serene benevolence of presenting a story of love.” As he said today, “I’m getting all New Agey in my own, abstract, do-it-yourself way.” Maybe that’s why the soundtrack was a muted variant on the abrasive thud that usually propels an Owens show forward. But the shift in sensibility also shaped the clothes as a benevolent embrace—cocooning capes; quilting; soft, plush fabrics; poncho tops; and those comfy onesies that cropped up in the men’s collection. It’s an extraordinary turn of events to think of a Rick Owens show promoting family values, but here they were: love, protection, communication. And, overall: the tribe, the shared sense of unity that has been integral to the Owens ethos over the years.” | more >
wwd.com: “Last season’s energetic step-team production would be difficult to beat no matter what. Still, Rick Owens made a strong point for fall with an imaginative show and a lineup of great clothes that pushed forward with just the right amount of urban verve. The designer moved his venue to central Trocadéro and cast a group of friends, employees and models, including Kirsten Owen and Nadège. The show subverted fashion norms: several looks came out on multiple rotation, adding a cool vibe that loosely recalled Helmut Lang’s fast-paced shows.” | more >
Nicole Phelps / style.com: “”Welcome to my jungle,” Olivier Rousteing pronounced backstage, declaring this fearless mash-up of safari chic and hip-hop style to be his most personal collection ever. “I’m French, I’m black, and I’m proud to be at Balmain, but this is a message of freedom and globalism,” he said. Rousteing’s new Fall show for Balmain continued in the groove of his pre-collection, which marked a departure from the glitz of his previous outings.” | more >
wwd.com: “Can Olivier Rousteing practice restraint? It’s a valid question given his past more-is-much-more tendencies. For fall, he made a statement with a Balmain lineup that was indeed pared down, by his standards at least. Gone were the flashy inspirations of Las Vegas, Miami and Russia, replaced here with “Freedom, and part of my youth,” Rousteing said backstage before the show. “This time, the only travel I did was to myself, to my generation and to global ethnicities.”” | more >
Nicole Phelps / style.com: “There are dueling impulses at work in Damir Doma’s new Fall collection. On the one hand, he’s eager to assert his designer bona fides; on the other, he’s not quite ready to let go of being the cool kid. First the serious stuff: Doma has raised the bar with his fabrics. From the burgundy and denim-blue jacquard that he used for a loose-fitting day dress to the burnout velvet of an evening number, there was a richness and depth to his materials that felt new.” | more >
wwd.com: “Working a strict/soft contrast, Damir Doma demonstrated commercial savvy with a fall collection of fashiony yet wearable clothes. “The iron fist in the velvet glove,” the designer stated in his show notes. He translated the notion in ways that riffed subtly on grunge.” | more >
Nicole Phelps / style.com: “Fausto Puglisi isn’t quite Milan’s newcomer anymore. There are others coming up behind him who are eager to take that title. But that doesn’t mean he’s gone staid and grown up on us, not with AC/DC and Led Zeppelin on the soundtrack, and not with the explosion of color and embroideries on his runway tonight.” | more >
wwd.com: “Passion is not a problem for Fausto Puglisi. In describing various elements — the Ballets Russes, Sonia Delaunay, the Statue of Liberty and color, among them — the words “obsessed” and “obsession” rolled off his tongue again and again. This bombastic enthusiasm raced through the clothes. The designer’s fall collection was a collision course of contrasts, some of which paired well together, while others weren’t meant to be. “It’s ladylike and young; it’s wife and mistress at the same time; chic and shock; sophisticated and a little bit vulgar,” said Puglisi, who is fearless in his pursuit of his extreme ethos.” | more >
see the full collection | shop SS14 right now in our store, and soon onlineall images © style.com
Nicole Phelps / style.com: “One key to the show’s success was its lightness. All the layers could’ve weighed things down, but even a funnel-neck, cocoon-shaped shearling jacket looked lofty, as if it had been injected with air.” | more >
wwd.com: “’Rough Terrain’ was the title of Michael and Nicole Colovos’ fall collection for Helmut Lang. Inspired by satellite photos of Mars, the duo played with cool abstract prints and pebbly textures that reflected the planet’s surface images.” | more >